Cloudy, mild windy and perfects waves making my day so perfect today at the beach. I have nothing much to say and we have been waiting for high tide.
High tide started coming in around 5.30 pm, the wind blowing hard on my face. This time Robert captured some pictures of me riding the waves. I ran, dipped my body in the water and kept an eye looking for the big waves. The waves moving up fast and once the approaching wave within 4 ft, I started direct my bodyboard towards to the beach and jumped my body on top of the board and..
I was riding on the waves....awesome!!!
Feeling good when the waves was travelling underneath my bodyboard,
The waves dragged me to the beach and salt water got into my eyes.
Catching the waves wasn't easy part. I still need to learn how to read the waves. Sometimes it getting rough, violents and unpredictable. One time I chose a wrong one when the force of waves went up quickly, pushing me onwards hardly and rolling me up like a pretzel. Definitely that strong waves separated my bodyboard from my hand grip, bumped my face on the bottom, my neck and my body twisted in the opposite way and my chin slided on the sand about 5 ft to the beach. I thought it had broken my back. It was like an accident. Robert got some scratches on his face and little cut under his eye from surfboard. I took a break after that incident but Robert still continue surfing.
It such a precious experience to feel the energy and powerful of waves. To whom read this blog, should try once in their life time.
Posted on Thursday, August 05, 2010
by
Zoey